What is a California wine?

California changed the wine world forever in 1976 when its wines beat France's best at the famous Judgment of Paris tasting. Nearly fifty years later, the state remains one of the most important and diverse wine regions on the planet.

Napa Valley is the prestige postcode — just 18,000 hectares but home to some of the world's most expensive wines. A Cabernet Sauvignon from Rutherford or Oakville delivers that signature Napa intensity: dark fruit, cassis, cedar, and what locals call "Rutherford Dust." The top tier (Screaming Eagle, Harlan Estate, Opus One) commands Bordeaux First Growth prices.

But there's so much more to California than big Napa Cabs. Sonoma County is where things get really interesting: Russian River Valley Pinot Noir can rival Burgundy's best villages, Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel is quintessentially Californian, and Sonoma Coast Chardonnay has a mineral, restrained style that's a world away from the buttery stereotype.

The Central Coast is California's frontier of discovery. Santa Rita Hills produces Pinot Noir with an almost Burgundian tension. Paso Robles has become Rhône variety central — incredible Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre blends at prices that make the Rhône Valley jealous. And old-vine Zinfandel from Lodi or the Sierra Foothills, some from vines over 100 years old, is uniquely American and utterly delicious.

The biggest shift in recent years has been a move towards balance and restraint. A new generation of winemakers (Arnot-Roberts, Matthiasson, Bedrock Wine Co.) is dialling back the oak and alcohol, embracing sustainability, and proving that California terroir can speak just as eloquently as any European appellation.