What is Hermitage wine?

The hill of Hermitage rises 300 metres above the Rhône River opposite the town of Tain-l'Hermitage, and vines have grown here since Roman times. Legend credits the name to Gaspard de Stérimberg, a 13th-century crusader who reportedly retreated to the hilltop as a hermit. The AOC, established in 1937, covers a mere 136 hectares split among roughly twenty owners — making it one of France's smallest great appellations.

The hill is divided into distinct lieux-dits (named plots) that shape different wine styles. Les Bessards on the western slope sits on pure granite and yields the most powerful, tannic reds. Le Méal in the centre blends granite with calcareous pebbles for rich complexity. Les Greffieux and Les Murets at the base have deeper, silty soils. L'Hermite at the very top is the oldest cultivated section. Top producers often blend across these plots to build layered, complete wines.

Reds make up about 75% of production, crafted from Syrah (up to 15% Marsanne and Roussanne are allowed but seldom used). Yields are capped at 40 hl/ha. Expect a deep, dark wine with aromas of blackcurrant, violet, smoked meat, and black pepper, supported by formidable tannins and a spine of acidity that carries the wine for decades. Legendary vintages — 1961, 1978, 1990, 2009, 2010, 2015 — prove ageing potential of 30 to 50 years.

White Hermitage, from Marsanne (dominant) and Roussanne, deserves special attention. Rich and opulent in youth, these wines often close down between five and ten years of age before re-emerging with extraordinary flavours of beeswax, toasted hazelnut, and dried fruit, capable of ageing 20 to 30 years.

Iconic producers include Jean-Louis Chave (family estate since 1481), Chapoutier, Paul Jaboulet Aîné (famed for "La Chapelle"), Delas Frères, and Bernard Faurie. Prices reflect the scarcity — expect roughly 50 to 300 euros for a good bottle, and far more for legendary cuvées.