What is Viognier?

Viognier has one of wine's most dramatic comeback stories. In the 1960s, this ancient grape was nearly extinct, down to just 14 hectares clustered around the tiny appellation of Condrieu in the northern Rhône. The steep granite slopes were being abandoned because they were so difficult to farm. Today, thanks to a worldwide planting boom, Viognier covers about 18,000 hectares globally.

Condrieu remains the gold standard — rich, perfumed wines that burst with apricot, white peach, and honeysuckle. Next door, Château-Grillet (just 3.5 hectares) is one of France's smallest appellations, producing a more restrained, mineral style. Interestingly, Viognier also plays a supporting role in the great reds of Côte-Rôtie, where up to 20% can be co-fermented with Syrah to add floral lift and silky texture.

The grape has travelled remarkably well. Australia's Yarra Valley and Eden Valley produce excellent examples, as does California's Central Coast. Languedoc makes great-value Viognier under the IGP Pays d'Oc label — these are crowd-pleasing wines with generous fruit at friendly prices.

Viognier is best enjoyed young, within 1-5 years of vintage, when its aromatics are at their most vibrant. The rich, almost oily texture and low-to-moderate acidity make it feel luxurious in the glass. It's one of those wines that impresses people instantly — even non-wine-drinkers tend to love it.

For food, Viognier shines with lobster, seared scallops, creamy fish dishes, mild curries, and anything with stone fruit or apricot in the recipe. It also works surprisingly well with foie gras as an alternative to Sauternes.