What is Zinfandel?

Zinfandel is California's grape, adopted and made famous in the Golden State even though its roots trace back to Croatia. The DNA detective story — solved in 2001 by UC Davis researcher Carole Meredith — revealed that Zinfandel, Italy's Primitivo, and Croatia's obscure Crljenak Kaštelanski are all the same grape. It's a wonderful example of how wine grapes travel and reinvent themselves.

What makes California Zinfandel special is the old vines. Some Zinfandel vineyards in Lodi, Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley, and Amador County have vines over 100 years old, planted before Prohibition. These gnarly, low-yielding bushvines produce intensely concentrated fruit. The resulting wines are big, bold, and unmistakably Californian — blackberry jam, pepper, liquorice, and spice, often north of 15% alcohol.

Don't dismiss White Zinfandel — that slightly sweet pink wine outsold red Zinfandel for decades and arguably saved many old vineyards from being pulled out. Without that commercial demand, some of California's most treasured old vines might not exist today.

In Italy's Puglia region, the same grape goes by Primitivo and makes wines with a similar rich, jammy character but often with a more rustic, Mediterranean edge. Primitivo di Manduria is the most prestigious appellation, producing full-bodied reds from sun-baked vineyards in Italy's heel.

Zinfandel is a barbecue wine par excellence. Its bold fruit and spice stand up to smoky, charred flavours beautifully. Think ribs, pulled pork, burgers, spicy sausages, and anything off the grill. It also works with pizza, chili, and strong aged cheeses.